Retinol. The ingredient that works magic with your wrinkles

The signs of aging can be fought at night with this active ingredient. There is no ingredient more legendary than retinol when it comes to fighting wrinkles. Although it is not a new active, in recent years it has become the great sensation in cosmetics due to its high effectiveness against skin aging. However, experts agree, knowing how to use it is essential to obtain the expected results.

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and belongs to the group of retinoids, discovered in the 1980s and considered by dermatologists since then as the most active and effective topical ingredient in facial rejuvenation. In short, they are molecules capable of changing the way cells work:

  • They favor the increase of collagen and elastin formation
  • Promotes increased cell renewal rate
  • Help disperse melanin granules in the epidermis

Externally, this translates into improved texture, fading of wrinkles and increased skin firmness, while reducing hyperpigmentation spots.

1930s: the starting point

Experts say retinol is for the skin as exercise is for the body. It is a good companion in almost all stages of life, adapting its concentration to the skin’s needs, and can be used from adolescence to treat acne and its marks or from the age of 30, where its use is usually focused on photoaging and melasma treatment. In fact, skins that use retinol are the ones that age better from a health point of view, however, its use is not recommended during pregnancy and lactation.

How to get started: little by little

Retinol can cause irritation if used too often or in excessive concentration and, in fact, it is normal for the skin to be slightly red or irritated when you start to apply cosmetics containing this ingredient. That’s why the ideal way to use it is to incorporate it gradually into the skin care routine and in low concentrations. This kind of care should be taken into account especially by people with sensitive skin or with problems such as rosacea or atopic dermatitis.

The main difference between a retinol prescribed by a dermatologist and one that we can buy at the pharmacy without a prescription is that the former is likely to be more concentrated. When going to the pharmacy on your own to buy a product containing retinol, it is best to start with a low concentration (between 0.1 and 0.2%) and increase progressively. Don’t forget that you can always count on the advice of your pharmacist and/or dermatologist.

In addition to the importance of an adequate concentration, the type of retinol must also be adapted to the needs of each skin: a more resistant skin can use a pure retinol at 0.3%, while a sensitive skin will better accept a retinyl palmitate equal to or below 1% like we use in our SkinPerfection by Bluevert™ products (Complete Night Serum and Soothing Eye Contour). Its use must be progressive and according to tolerance: in the first two weeks you can apply it every three days and alternate with another less intensive cosmetic. With this frequency it will already be effective; then everything will depend on the resistance of your skin, it can use it on alternate days and even daily if the skin supports it.

Wrinkles are fought at night

We know that many good things happen to the skin at night and that is the best time to treat the signs of aging. In addition, retinol has the particularity of being a photosensitive molecule, degrading rapidly in the presence of sunlight, reducing its effectiveness. Despite not having a direct photosensitizing effect, the use of retinol during the day can potentiate and exacerbate any previous inflammation of the skin during sun exposure (especially unprotected). Due to these facts, although there are options designed to be applied in the morning (which should always be accompanied by sunscreen), the most common is to incorporate it into the night routine.

How to apply? Always directly on clean, dry skin. Apply a small amount of product, at night, with gentle movements.